Setting up a warp - #2 making a warp

This article is part of a series of instructions for Setting up a warp.

For a summary of the articles in this series  go to article Instructions for setting up a warp.

Previous Part Setting up a warp - #1 Making your pattern draft plan

Next Part  Setting up a warp - #3 Making the loom ready for winding on your warp

2. Making a warp on warping posts of warping mill

To make a warp, you can use warping posts or a warping mill. When your warp is planned to be a little longer, a warping mill works faster. In this instruction we demonstrate how to make a warp with the Louët warp mill. 

We suggest to divide a wider warp into several warp sections, which are all of the same width, with a maximum of 35 cm per warp section.

With our weaving plan, we have already calculated how many warp threads there are per warp section for the sample weave

	Louet vertical warping mill for short and longer warps, circumference 2.4 yards. This warping mill is fully foldable. (#WA0188). Louet warping posts are good for warps up to approx 3.5 yards. Lacquered 7 post (#WA0189)  Unlacquered 6 post (WA0301)
	Guide thread To ensure that the warp sections are all the same length, a cotton thread in a different color than the warp is measured for the desired warp length. Add some extra length to tie this guide thread at the start and end point. Use the furthest posts so that the warp also runs along the other posts. You may need to move either the bars or posts, so that the guide thread is tight from start to the end post. This thread is now a guide for the path you should follow while warping. The guide thread is not tied off with the warp and remains on the mill until the last warp section is made.
	Making the warp cross Tie the thread at the starting post of the warp (in our example we start at the top). Turn the mill and follow the route of the guide thread. The threads are crossed at the last pin. This is done to ensure that the threads can be placed in successive sequence while placing them in the raddle (step 4) and threading through the heddles (step 6). With delicate (silk) or hairy (mohair) yarns, or dense warps, it is recommended to make a cross at both the beginning and the end of the warp.
Counting the warp threads To count the warpthreads, use a piece of thick cotton thread. After warping the first 10 threads, place the cotton at one end point, on the end peg (see below). Cross the counting thread after winding the next 10 threads. Remember, each wrap of the warp goes in both directions, thus is 2 warp threads, so if you count 5 threads at the end peg, you have actually counted 10 warp threads. After 24 times 10 threads, the first part of the warp is finished and you can remove the counting thread.
Tying off the warp Tie off the cross with 4 cotton threads at the sides of the cross. If you have made a second cross at the other end, tie them the same way.    The tie’s are done so that even if the warp falls off the mill at some point, the cross integrity will be maintained and salvaged. Then tie off the warp in a few more places; at distances of about one yard. This is to help ensure the warp stays organized and does not tangle.  Make sure not to tie off the guide thread as it will be used again for the next warp section.
Remove the warp from the mill Remove the warp from the mill by slightly loosening the first (here top) peg. The guide thread stays on the warping mill. As you remove the warp from the mill, "hand crochet" it to organize and bundle your warp into a manageable size. DO NOT pull the end of the warp through the hook loop as it should be able to be pulled out later.
This article is part of a series of instructions for Setting up a warp. For an summary of the articles in this series go to article Instructions for setting up a warp Previous Part Setting up a warp - #1 making your pattern draft plan Next Part Setting up a warp - #3 Making the loom ready for winding on your warp