Setting up a warp - #7 threading the reed

This article is part of a series of instructions for Setting up a warp.

For a summary of the articles in this series go to article Instructions for setting up a warp.

Previous article-  Setting up a warp - #6 Threading the warp through the heddles

Next article -  Setting up a warp - #8 Tying on a warp

Tip:  After threading the heddles, the next step is tying the treadles  Although it is not the logical next step in the process, it can be useful to tie up the treadles next, since you have the best access to the treadles with the beater, breast beam and cloth beam all removed from the loom. (The explanation of how to tie the treadles follows in #9 Set up warp - tying up the treadles)
You get a better view and its more comfortable if the reed is horizontal when sleying. David, Spring, Delta, Octado, Megado:  Place the beater back into the loom and remove the upper beater support. Lay the reed flat and secure it with the red clamps. Jane: tilt the reed forward again, and place the reed horizontally between the top and bottom reed bars (Picture to follow) Erica, Klik, Magic Dobby (Picture to follow)
Tip: To improve your view of the threaded yarns while threading the reed, you can clamp a wooden bar (for example, a warp stick) on top of the reed. Tip: mark the center of the reed with a marker
	When sleying the reed, some people prefer to work from the center or from the left or the right. If you work from the side, measure from the center of the reed, half the distance to the left or right.  With a weaving width of 60 cm (23.5”) that is 30 cm (11.75”) from the center left or right Now we use the supplied 40/10 reed with 4 openings per cm (10 dpi) and because our pattern calls for a reed of 8 threads/cm, we thread 2 threads per opening. Pull the knot from the first bunch of warp threads and thread them through in order; insert the reed hook from below, through the opening with the hook pointed towards you. Put the threads around the hook and pull the warp threads down.
It is important that the warp threads do not cross between the heddles and the reed. Therefore, always slide each heddle a little when its threads have been put through the reed.   After an inch, tie a loop knot in the bunch of warp threads that hang from the bottom of the reed.
When all warp threads have been threaded through the reed, place the upper beater support back in place and secure the bolts. Hold the reed and remove the side clamps and the warp stick. Tilt the reed and lower the upper beater support onto the reed. With the Jane you need the top bar Check that the reed is centered and secure the upper beater support on both sides with the star knobs.
You can now remove the lease sticks. They create excess restriction during tying and you do not need them when weaving. If you still want to leave them in place, make sure they are at least not higher than the heddle eyes and that they are well supported.
This article is part of a series of instructions for Setting up a warp. For a summary of the articles in this series go to article Instructions for setting up a warp. Previous article-  Setting up a warp - #6 Threading the warp through the heddles Next article -  Setting up a warp - #8 Tying on a warp