Setting up a warp - #5 Winding on your warp

This article is part of a series of instructions for Setting up a warp.

For a summary of the articles in this series go to article Instructions for setting up a warp.

Previous article-Setting up a warp - #4 Placing the warp in the raddle

Next article -  Setting up a warp - #6 Threading the warp through the heddles

This instruction is for the larger treadle looms and dobby looms Attach apron bar to the back beam The tie-on cords supplied with Louet looms are accurately measured for length so that the apron bar is parallel to the back beam or breast beam. Check whether this is the case by pulling the tie-on-rod through the cord loops at the marked places (on the David-3 and the Spring-2) these markings are placed on the raddle, on the other looms with wooden apron bars, these markings are on the bars. David-3 and Spring-2 With the David-3 and Spring-2, the wooden tie-on bars have been replaced by stainless steel rods as tie-on bars. The advantage is that they are thin and cannot tilt. When weaving a narrow warp, the tie on bar can bend.   To reduce this bend, reduce the length of the outside tie on cords by 2 texsolv loops. On the back of the wood of the raddle there are markings in the center and where the tie-on cords should be attached to the tie-on rod. Delta, Megado and Octado Remember to use the warp tie-on bar (it is slightly longer than the cloth beam tie-on bar). Divide warp Separate the warp at the tie-on markings on the raddle. This does not need to be at the same position as the front warp bundles. The connection of the warp to the warp beam is made by inserting the metal tie-on rod alternately through part of the warp and through the loop of a beam tie-on cord. Turn the warp beam so far that the tie-on bar hangs about 4” above the back beam. After inserting the tie-on bar, give it additional temporary support by, inserting it into the elastics. That gives you the opportunity to hang the weights on the front of the loom.
		Apply weights. The warp must be wound onto the warp beam under tension. To do this, attach weights to the part of the warp that hangs over the breast beam. In the example, we hang a weight of 1 kg on each warp section. The total amount of weight when winding on is not that important, but it is important that there are equal weights on equal sections of the warp. Depending on the kind of warp yarn, it may be necessary to use more or less weight per warp section. Instead of the weights we use in this article, you can also use PET bottles with water, or bags filled with stones.
		Remove any ties or bindings from the first yard of the warp. Pull the sections of the warp tight while strumming the warp with your other hand, so as loosen any snags.
		Slide the loops of the weights to a spot on the warp so they hang just above the floor, and tighten the loops.
		Due to the weights, the warp threads are now tight and you can spread the warp threads more evenly and parallel to each other on the tie-on bar at the back: as spread as evenly as shown on the photo.
		Release the brake of the warp beam and turn the warp beam until the tie-on rod has passed the back beam. Warp threads on the sides of the warp tend to run out to the side of the warp beam when winding. The side clamps on the beam helps to prevent this.
		Warping and warp sticks After the tie-on bar touches the warp beam, place warp divider sticks between the warp and the warp beam cords on the first revolution of the warp beam. The first turn you can insert 4 and the next turn, stagger them with respect to the previously inserted sticks. Depending on the density of the warp, you can usually do two revolutions without adding warp divider sticks. The 16 supplied warp divider sticks are sufficient for 3 meters of warp. Extra sticks are available as an accessory, but you can also use other sturdy material, as long as it is wider than the warp width. The material used should not be too soft. Thick wrapping paper, flexible cardboard are very useful. Sometimes old blinds are also used.
	During the winding of the warp, the weights on the warp end are pulled up and when they reach the breast beam, you slide them back down. In doing so, you loosen the weight and shake the bundle well. Make sure that the warp threads run unobstructed along the lease sticks when winding on the warp. You continue to wind the warp until about 20” of warp remains before the raddle.
Remove the weights. Slide the cover slats off the raddle and then lift the threads out of the raddle and let them hang down in front of the lease sticks.
This article is part of a series of instructions for Setting up a warp. For an overview of the articles in this series go to article Instructions for setting up a warp. Previous article Setting up a warp - #4 Placing the warp in the raddle Next article  Setting up a warp - #6 Threading the warp through the heddles